A year on and lessons in patience

         The New Year has come and settled in and now its first month can almost be ticked off.

I have always liked the feel of January, the madness and mayhem of the end of the previous year is done and dusted and replaced with something that is more relaxed and casual.

Only now I’m still in Kiribati, not the plan this time a year ago !

My 12 month assignment date has come and gone and instead of joining the summer festivities on the Australian East Coast I’m sitting here wondering what I was thinking in wanting to extend my time here in woop woop !

For the most this place can be an easy place to be, as long as you take a shine to its offerings, its people, its rubbish, its rice and fish, its crap (dog and human), its mad buses, its pot-holed road, its loud music and its program. 

And don’t expect too much.

 Pig teeth, coral and a seed pod

It has offered me a very present and engaging life, every sky is different even when viewed from my unchanged front door, rain offers almost instant relief and freshness from the heat and coconuts fall from high above leaving a trail of smashed windscreens. 

 Clouds that add delight to my day

Surprises and challenges come daily and are probably best dealt from a present alertness than from raging triggered emotions or rolling eyes. 

(Fingers crossed my record 90 minute wait for a bus to work doesn’t get broken  ! )

 Coconuts reaching for the sun, the clouds and the gods

Challenges yes, they are guaranteed, especially on the fortnightly payday when everyone hits the road, for walking, transport or sleeping off the days offerings or when the shops run out of rice or loo paper or there’s no tuna or it’s another three days of no internet/power/water.

 Tuna delivery anyone !

For over a year my adopted manta has been around using the opportunities that come up anywhere and anytime for developing patience, it now seems that notion has gone on a summer break.
For the most this mantra has served me well, patience has been learned and practiced, I’d even say for a while there perfected except perfection is a far to unrealistic ideal.

As the start of 2013 rolled along and those self-help happiness tips on the www invite you to check how those life-enhancing goals are shaping up I started to think about what this year may bring and reflect on the one past.

Maybe I’m a slow learner but it’s taken me over a year to get to a point of actually wondering what I am doing here in the middle of the Pacific Ocean !

Twelve months in a developing country is peanuts to think much can be done, yes a canoe got launched and a couple of community awareness projects reached many people. But at work I still need to clear away the geeko poo and dumped stuff to find a space on the desk, find a chair to sit on and last week relocate another litter of kittens from under my desk.  I was starting to think I’d seen it all until after the New Years break when I returned to the office and it had been turned into sleeping quarters, complete with mat and pillows ! (the office is only about 10 x 8 feet)

 My workplace, the mwanabea and the white building is the office

Some big stuff has been achieved and there is always the small stuff wherever one goes, it’s just that now the small stuff the books tell us not to sweat is given my patience a workout. 
There’s no water cooler to gather around to gripe or discuss which contestant really has the “X” factor or a kitchen to fill in time by making everyone tea, 

it’s just my holidaying patience and me.

The waves roll in and out gently washing the discarded coconuts husks and rubbish to another place and the hungry tide gathers more sands leaving us all exposed and vulnerable.
Challenges, opportunities, lessons and stuff will continue is various shapes and sizes with this assignment and beyond, and with less than 3 months before leaving here my thoughts are turning to the what’s next.

 In a tea cup of course !

Now where’s that water cooler ?

Which movie to see ?

What do you mean no one has to sit on my lap on the bus !

Getting a job, hmm, the bills still need to be paid....

 Up Next : Not sure........

Launching a canoe without getting wet !

I could never be described as a “salty dog” type preferring to keep my eyes in sight of land, even if it is as small and fragile as it is here in Kiribati.  But coming to such a place to do unknown tasks has meant at least one thing,  getting my toes wet.

Early on in my time here one of the tasks identified was to get a canoe sea worthy and safer for some blind and physically disabled people to use. (see earlier post).

  

looking old and tired

The project came about with assistance from several other volunteers, one who involved his consulting company in South Australia to raise funds for the materials and one who is on assignment at the local boat builders. It was great to see what could happen when like minded people put there heads and heart together.

I had not seen the canoe in action but had been informed of the difficulties in carrying people safely. The initial assessment of the canoe apart from being a tad tired and lack of maintience found no structural issues to hinder the boats safety. Hmm, something is a miss here, even this land loving city dweller knew something was astray, but I was happy that the boat builders had some ideas and suggestions.

As the months rolled on waiting for the materials (glue, timber etc) to arrive I carried on with other projects and it was at one of these, a workshop on an outer island that I gleaned what the problem actually was.  Up there projected on the screen for all to see was a picture of the canoe, I did a double take, OMG it’s got half of Tarawa on it, this is a canoe that was made to carry 3 people ! 

In a country were I have been passenger number 33 in a 16 seater bus why should having 4 times the amount of people on board a canoe be a surprise ! 

Salty dogs are smart, especially ones that build boats and have been here awhile (30 plus years), the makeover on the canoe included reshaping the top front (sorry Mike & Ray for the lack of technical terms) so that ones bum will slide off. This canoe now has reduced the sitting space for said bums and has added floatation in the pointy bits (confirming lack of technical knowledge).

So after 9 months the canoes makeover has been completed and she’s come home, to the brilliantly turquoise coloured lagoon waters of Te Toa Matoa, the peak Disabled People’s Organisation in Kiribati.

 Collection day after her makecover, Ione, Rocket, me, Ray & Sion

Canoe are like family members here, especially for the subsistence living people and those that want to generate some income by selling fish to the rest of us. The proud collective owners rebuild a structure for the canoe for protection from the elements and re-launch plans were quickly actioned.

The occasion and celebration was about a month ago but still vivid in my mind. The morning was filled with cooking, cleaning and decorating and everyone was in on the day with tasks to do. Watching a 72kilo Yellow fin tuna get made into a variety of dishes and tasting coconut traditional desserts as I wandered past the outdoor kitchens and fires really felt like I was in reality TV show, maybe a cross between Survivor and Master Chef !

 Cooking up a storm

As the afternoon cooled guests arrived including the Kiribati Deputy President and the Australian High Commissioner. The “program” was set and proceedings started 5 minutes before the scheduled start time (absolutely unheard of in this country !).  Songs were sung, heads were crowned with beautiful garlands, speechs given, dancers showered with talcum powder (a display of appreciation) and the pandus ribbon across the front of the canoe was cut. 

Dancer performing the garland dance & duties

 

Earlier in the day I inquired as to how many people it would take to lift the canoe the 20 odd foot from it’s shelter into the water. I didn’t get an answer or one that made sense to me and now understand why. This canoe launch wasn’t about getting it’s toes wet, the day was one of celebration, not work or fishing, hence she sat in her new home soaking in the admiration and beaming brightly for the camera. 

Keeping dry in her new shelter

The wonderful food was enjoyed, the band belted out a variety of tunes as the guests twisted on the coral dance floor and the canoe kept dry.

A month on and she’s yet to hit the water !

UP NEXT : A year on and new beginnings.