Saturday 30 March 2013

Home and away !

 Which is home and which is away has become very blurred of late.
My assignment end is just around the corner and I have had a quick trip back to Australia, a place that I have comfortably been away from.
It’s an odd possie to be in, not even a week ago I was in Sydney wanting to be in Tarawa, now I’m in Tarawa packing up to return to Sydney.  Recently someone asked me for clarification when I used the word “home”, no automatic answer came to mind.


Looks like Sydney girls can be found anywhere - this one is in Fiji !

The return trip was to sit in the dentist chair for root canal therapy, but honestly talking over ones troubles, doing some sand play or just drowning some sorrows with a nice glass of wine has got to be easier therapy path. The lovely dentist in Tarawa diagnosed the problem well but the decision to see a dentist in a developed country is what took me back there. With the work done to a stable condition I returned to Tarawa to pack my home at “ocean view” and wrap up my assignment.

I have expected a mixture of emotions and feelings to arise as the assignment end approaches and having a lightening quick visit back gave me the opportunity to dip my toes back in to the shoes of a developed country. 
It’s funny to note the once perfectly normal things that now seem so alien. I sat on a train and marvelled that every single person was wearing shoes, took up residence in the fruit and veggie shop gooey eyed with choice and if I ate any more grapes I reckon I could have been labelled and cellared.
And what a delight to drink water straight from the tap and OMG the hot showers, I felt like a teenage boy that takes eons to get into a shower, then you can’t move them. 
As for the supermarkets, what a maze, I’d forgotten that food came in so many packets, varieties, shapes, sizes, colours, caters to specific needs/markets, offers desserts, snacks, food for kids, dogs, cats, birds and a squillion products to get your clothes clean. As for the dairy section there wasn’t a tin of powered milk in sight but enough cheese to sink a Tarawa supply boat.

As anyone that has read this blog or knows me will glean I am a fan of op shops and giving things a new go at life. Recycling, re-gifting, rethreading, re anything really, I’m up for keeping the wheel of stuff going round.
 The second hand furniture and goods market in Tarawa isn’t big, selective, designer or going to feature in some glossy home or style magazine, it’s mostly us foreigners that who haven’t been sitting crossed legged from the time we could walk that need such comforts. The few items available are unfashionably old and grungy, any western hard rubbish or council throw out is going to run rings around the frayed lounges or occasional table that you’d only want to use occasionally as found here.
When in Sydney one day as I walked to a train station I spotted a gem, a mop with a manual wringer-outer thingo, I slowed down, I perused the item (very good condition with many a wash still to be had) and slowly kept walking as a strong thought urge surfaced, “I’d kill for that in Tarawa” !


The trek here requires at least a one-night stopover in Fiji and a wake up call for the 5 am flight departure. The Air Pacific twice weekly schedule must be the first flight out of Nadi and last Monday I joined the check-in queue with the other bleary eyed passengers. Next it’s a wander by the duty free shops with their eager young shop assistants, 3.30am isn’t a time I have gin and tonic is my mind so I make it to the lounge for coffee and my last dose of real milk.

The Kiribati experience really begins the moment you are on that plane, the smiles, the laughter and the talking to each other from 4 rows apart starts before the rubber of those small wheels even turns. It’s a 3 hour flight that takes off in the dark, where a blanket is needed for those not accustomed to air conditioned and sleep comes accompanied by a cacophony of sounds.  


And this is before take off !
Given this would be my last flight into Tarawa I looked forward to marvelling at the sunrise and the view of the slither of land we would land on. Opps, I seem to have taken up the Kiribati skill of sleeping and wake as we hit the tarmac.


The air stip of Tarawa International Airport - good to see it used wisely !
Before making it to the terminal it’s “Mauri, Mauri and welcome back” and a hug from a local that appears genuinely happy that I have arrived back. Our paths have crossed at the airport on the buses over the past year and a bit, she knows where I work and she knows my people (those with disabilities) and she makes me feel at home.     
I know I am going to miss the people of Kiribati, it is my physical home for just a little longer and the memories will travel with me but for now it’s packing up and goodbyes. 


Happy Easter

Up next - One big Botaki to come 

Friday 15 March 2013

Friendships and moving on


As I think about heading back to a city life in a Western country many things come to mind along with the sorting and packing of the stuff that has taken up residence in my home and heart.
One such “thing”, is a gift that made it’s way here via the Australian and local postal service (and didn’t take 75days to arrive like a recent Christams card). It changed my relationship/commitment status, has offered an enjoyable weekly activity, looks good, has just the right amount of firmness, tastes yummy and got an outing in an earlier blog posting.  

The time is coming to be parting company with “Mr Sourdough”.
He’s been fed and watered on a regular basis, kneaded, risen to the occasion, complemented simple offerings and learnt to sit quietly. He knows the path from the fridge and back again and will soon take the pot holed road to another home and dinner table.


Looking for a home...........

With quite a lot of free time and only 15 square miles of coral atoll to play on I have taken to surfing the net (albeit very slowly due to assess speed), done a bit of shopping (window and real) and now preparing to change my virtual relationship status.
Do I leap or take steps  ?
Do I take the dive and go from “in relationship” to “single” in a solitary bound or do I take the side road and go “it’s complicated”. 

Actually it all sounds too complicated ………….

Being here is not unlike living in a country town. Forget the six degrees of separation, it’s a small place and everyone knows everyone or in the case of many of the locals they are related somehow. Each of us develops friendships /relationships of varying depths and interests within the small expat community or via work, but for the most these friendships are new. I have some that started face to face in Australia at pre departure briefing, some that wandered along a virtual path as I tried to answer queries and give a “real” picture of life here as they prepared for their adventure here and others that have developed over the tennis net.

Keeping strong

Relationships are funny things, to be in and to observe.
Recently I spent a day with 2 couples, each partnership clocking up 33 years of marriage. Well done and the greatest delight is that they appear to still to have great love and respect to each other and for their commitments.
Against a backdrop of culture that start having children very young, have big wedding botakis (or elope), show little or no affection to each other in public and seem to go from one partner to another this day was an affirming occasion. 


Making love, well recycling stamps that say love !
As I start to say my goodbyes to friendships made with people of all ages, and twist another dance to the fast paced “Kiribati” beats I know I think and feel differently.
It’s a changing world and 14 months in Kiribati is leaving some wonder and angst in my heart and mind. I expect it will take some time for the sand to settle in the jar of muddy lagoon waters and the next chapters of re-settlement back in Australia to uncurl. In the mean time friendships made will continue to play an important part in life here and beyond.
Friendships and time with the people that I spend almost every day with, the ones that laugh at my attempt speaking Kiribati, the ones that make my arrival at work a delight, the people I sit next to on a geeko  weed desk or grass roofed  Mwanabea, are going to be  missed terribly.
The time is coming to say farewell to those that have called me “one of them”.
Te Toa Matoa are real people of Kiribati, on the ground doing what they can for “their people” others with disabilities.
The days to laugh, dance and enjoy their smiles and friendships are coming to an end.


 Street performance with TTM

Up next:   Departure count down