Equatorial Christmas

This week it feels like I’m jumping from the pan into the fire for my first Christmas here on the equator, hot, hot, hot with extra high humidity added for festive discomfort.

 One shop taking the simple approach !

Kids in chrissy deco mode

 

Commercial interests have increased in the time I been here and yesterday I found more evidence, several shops filled with the normal cheap Christmas “crap” found in western countries. I haven’t seen any animals bigger than a pig here but neon reindeers, flashing antlers and even a sheep can now be found amongst USB plug in snow flakes and Santa outfits that would give any diet guru more than a dreary hot flush.  

Cutting & pasting

 

It looks like this year really is throwing the cat amongst the pigeons, not just in free market trading but also in shop identification. For several years there has been a shop (as in one) that had "Merry Xmas" written in neon lights across the front of the building, the lights have never come down, hence it is known as the “Merry Christmas” shop (much easier than remembering where it actually is or pronouncing the village name).

Who knows next year it may be santa shop, the Jesus shop (just opened this week selling lots of Marys) and the new Merry Christmas shops.  Without any post Christmas sales next week I'd suspect any Christmas stock will sit there ready for next year or until some highly paid consultant comes in and suggests having Christmas in July!

I’m not one of those Christmas/Christian bar humbugging types and I don't subscribe to any creation theory but really I wouldn’t complain if Christmas was moved to a bi-annual event.
 But like most people I don’t mind a celebration and reckon goodwill, being merry, showing compassion, sharing meals and time together are pretty good ideas and actions. I’m also a bit partial to the old carol singing, Christmas cake and hand made cards to induce a warm and fuzzy feeling.  

This year I have kept to my normal simple Christmas routine, made a fruit cake with 4 imported ingredients (1 kilo of mixed fruit, 2 cups of prune juice and 2 cups of SR flour & almonds on top), made a swag of cards from recycled materials and 30 odd lanterns (somehow I knew 11 months of loo rolls were going to come in useful !)

 Hmm, prune juice...........

 

Lanterns glowing the way

An absolute delight this week was the brass (well, silver) band turning up at work in 2 trucks, off they jumped all 26 of them complete with home made matching music stands to play carols and whatever other songs they knew.

The dance moves to the Hokey Pokey were a treat as was the amount of coral picked up to hold the music sheets from blowing away in the impending storm.And I loved the big, big drum complete with BYO chair to hold it up.

 Carols, coral & hokey pokey

As for Christmas day, there are about 20 of us I-Matang left here getting together for an orphans gathering. Should be fun, the present giving is the ol’ Kris Kringle, only this one is to bring something from home that you want to get rid of (wrapped spouses and kids optional) or bringing a treasure from the op shop.

On that note, much merriment to all, may the fat man in the red suit find a chimney near you and may the bottle of wine I have finally scored sip slowly through my lips.

Up next : Back to launching a canoe without getting ya feet wet !

Dogs and Gods

Praise the dogs and gods of Kiribati (of which there are many), after 5 nights of no power and water I have now been rescued from being a really, really mad

I-Matang.

It was feeling like a de ja vu or a ground hog experience. No, much more than a feeling it WAS a repeat experience from when I first arrived in Tarawa 11 months ago. 

First the gas run out (I new that was coming) then the power was cut off which means no pump for water. So no gas, power and water for one day then after travelling the length of the island gas was sourced so coffee could be brewed and food that wasn’t going off in the fridge cooked.

A trip to the department responsible for the electricity supply and billing confirmed that yes, the power had been cut off and the outstanding amount due was almost $500 !!! Whilst I needed my glasses to do a double take on the figures I didn’t need glasses to see that an old card file system had resurfaced, one that didn’t have my handwriting on it.  Same account number and house location, just different era!   

Where you go to pay the electricity bill !

The wisdom and administrative efficiency employed to manage a system held on from British rule had had a dusting and unearthed a previous tenants account. Of course someone has to pay and us I-matangs like to have electricity so let’s turn it off ! It was eventually worked out that no, it’s wasn’t my bill and when asked if I’d get the power turned back on that day the standard answer was given.
"Yes”, which can and often means anything but that !   
So with the next day being a public holiday followed by a weekend it meant five waterless days and candle lit evenings.

Hmm.. the electricity supply

Under a moon lite sky and with the lack of mechanical chill more things started to bubble and brew. Mr Sourdough took the inopportune time to become “active”. I really was feeling heady, hot and sweaty and wanted to try the “not tonight I’ve got a headache” line but know that opportunities need to be grabbed when presented and kneaded with two hands. 

I fell, I stumbled, I scummed to the aroma and fantasy that only a good sourdough can arouse.

Silence, the soft glow of candlelight, a warm balmy breeze AND gas meant one thing, we have rise to this occasion again. Me and Mr Sourdough had the evening together. 

As the morning sun started to sneak it’s rays across the low tide and the neighbours played yet another I-Kiribati song on their mobile phone I stirred with a sense of knowing deep in my heart. 
A beginning was starting to, well, start, this was a new morning, change was occurring and rituals were being challenged.

 Sunrise from my front door 

The big breakfast that I once knew had a new loaf on the block, sweet was being swapped for sour, yolks were big and bright and some greens were added, not just because it was law. (Kiribati must be the only country where it’s law to serve a green when selling a meal!).    

Mr Sourdough has taken my heart

My plate was filled with colour from a treat that couldn’t be washed off, a step along a path to somewhere had been taken, it was a night that deserved a celebration. 

For the time being Mr Sourdough is back in the fridge, next time I'm hoping to take the lead and we'll hubble and bubble to the beat of my drum. 

Up next : Launching a canoe without getting wet !